We left from San Jose on Thursday afternoon, took a 2 or so hour bus ride to Puntarenas (see map), got on the ferry for a hour or so to Paquera, and then back on a bus, and on a dirt road on the way to Malpais. By the time we boarded bus #2, it was dark, and we drove along the dirt roads and into complete darkness (no street lights here). I heard they filmed Jurassic Park in Costa Rica, and all I have to say is that I don't doubt it. If a T-Rex had come out of the jungle, I frankly would not have been a bit surprised. At one point I'm pretty sure our bus was about to tip over sideways.Then, we emerged from the darkness and onto a meagerly lit street, in front of a sign called "Franks Place." Ladies and gentlemen, this was the end of the line. The 6 of us were pretty much dumped from the bus, and after asking where our "hotel" was (more on aforementioned hotel later), we were told to go "izquierda por quinientos metros." Okay. Armed with nothing but my mini mag light (thank you dad for putting that one in the Christmas stocking this year it may have saved my life, or at least my foot) we proceeded down another dirt road. No paved roads here either.
However, after what I dare say was substantially more than 500 meters, we arrived at our place - the Malpais Surf Camp.
We proceeded up to the bar and checked into our "rancho," which we had been told by one of our travel mates who was arriving next day was the way to go - $10 a night. Check yes on that one. When we opened the door, I died laughing. Thank goodness I like camping, because a rancho was a 3 walled hut (wall is a forgiving word I'm talking thatched roof material). What was the fourth wall? Oh that's right, a rail, covered by a couple of bushes. However, it pretty much made the experience, our rancho, complete with a lockbox/coffin to protect our luggage! After a cocktail and a lot of bug spray, we braved the open air experience, which was actually quite nice!
(view of the rancho)
(our "safe")
Malpais was great because its beaches and atmosphere were totally different than Manuel Antonio. The town is tiny, one little street, and full of surfers. There are definitely more English speakers than Spanish speakers there, which was quite an experience. Our hotel had a restaurant on the premises and a great pool, so all of Friday we just laid on the beach and came back to eat. Not a bad day.
Saturday was awesome, in addition to the fact that it was the 4th of July, as anyone who knows me knows I consider this holiday to be above all the rest. We decided to rent beach bikes and ride to a little fishing village we had heard about a couple of miles outside of town.
I hopped on my little bike with no real handlebars to speak of, and we were off! The village turned out to be just a couple of boats and people, but we were pointed to a small, rocky trail and told there was a pretty beach ahead. After a couple of near death experiences on my bike, we made it. Ta-Dah!!!!
To top off a great morning, we ended up at this little restaurant run out of a family's home called Piedra del Mar (rock of the sea for those of you who don't speak Spanish), where I had a great casado, Orange Fanta (only my family will appreciate this one; I thought of you all with every sip), on the side of a rocky outface of the ocean. An afternoon by the pool to follow, and I was one happy camper.
Saturday night, we found some Americans to celebrate with us. Not as good of a party as I'm pretty sure was had at Pickwick Lake, but quite satisfying.
Well, that was long. And I have more, but another day. I've got a paper to write!
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